CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Flower Problems

Cattleya Alliance Orchid Doctor

by Robert M. [Bert] Hamilton (Compiler)

Originally published in The Orchid Doctor in 1980 and 1988

Posted by Sys Admin almost 8 years ago.

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In December and January when most problems arise, the alliance is fussy about conditions necessary to produce good flowers because of the lack of light, etc.; good light, a steady supply of food and a buoyant atmosphere are hard to combine in overcast areas; growth becomes abnormal so additional artificial light and better air conditioning become inevitable. OR80-207
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CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Breeding Bifoliate yellows, bronzes and greens from Brazil, especially the importance and place of C. aclandiae, granulosa, velutina, forbesii; their pros and cons in breeding; habitats and cultivation in full sun. A85-1314; A86-691 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Breeding for Whites If two whites are crossed and one has a C gene and the other an R gene the progeny will all be purple. F86-172 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Bud Drop Can be caused by temperature too low for proper development or by a shortage of water, or by the presence of ethylene at a concentration of one part per million or more. OR82-101 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Bud Rot in Sheath Caused by rise of amount of moisture in the sheath through excessive watering practice, or a rapid chamge in the temperature such as is caused by the winter sun in a cold greenhouse. F87-123 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Change to Unifoliates Seedlings often show bifoliate ancestry but mature and flower as unifoliates. A84-1182; A87-950 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Control of Flowering About June 1, cover the plants each night with black cloth draped over a rack completely at 5 P.M. and remove in the morning at 8 A.M.; flowers start in July and peak in August and September when most weddings occur. OIE85Sept-14 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Cultural Problems Set Right For professional advice on light requirements, specific temperatures to use, watering practices, humidity levels, fertilizing routines, etc., with much related detail, refer to A83-129; 344;469;612 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Culture of Seedlings When moved to single pots they differ from those in community pots by requiring slightly cooler temperatures, slightly brighter light and slightly less moisture. A87-615 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Culture Problems Root problems, light problems, variations in flowering and sheathing, budding and malformations; for advice refer to A84-494 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Flowers Get Smaller From Year to Year This is not unusual with plants grown in the home or under lights where a change in culture is involved contributing to a loss of vigour or energy; a greenhouse produces better flowers usually. A84-473 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Hybrids Day length and temperatures necessary to induce buds: those with C. labiata or C. mossiae in their forbears usually flower during short days (fall, winter, spring) and can be controlled to flower twice a year with eight to ten weeks of short days; those with C. gigas forbears flower when the new growths mature and can11 be controlled; night temperatures of 55 to 60 dF favor flowering. A83-698 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Light Requirements Some hybrids need short days and long nights in winter to initiate inflorescences. A87-33 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: New Growth Turn Black This could indicate starvation from loss of roots or overlong day lengths. A86-274 0
CATTLEYAS, BIFOLIATES: Stems Elongated and Weak A period of overcast days can cause flower stems to lengthen and hang down, expecially in long-stemmed types. A88-280 0

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