SHADING: Purpose

Culture Orchid Doctor

by Robert M. [Bert] Hamilton (Compiler)

Originally published in The Orchid Doctor in 1980 and 1988

Posted by Sys Admin over 7 years ago.

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It reduces both the heating effect of the sun and the intensity of light, so a compromise is always in order; the best by test is lath blinds, placed about one foot above the roof, and rolled into place when necessary; refer to OR87-84
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Shading Comments
SHADING, ECLIPTIC: Permanent with No Movable Parts The amount of shading changes with the inclination of the sun; for the south end of a greenhouse; like a fixed Venetian blind; slats are set so low that the winter sunlight enters, but the high summer sun is blocked; specifications and diagrams; refer to ODA74-64+ 0
SHADING: For Cattleyas In California use 63% shade cloth for them and for dendrobiums. A86-719 0
SHADING: For Greenhouses Recently developed products include "Vari-Shade" a coating; "Ripple glass" which allows good light to pass through and alleviates the need for shade; "Papronet" a netting for shade made of polypropylene and polyethylene, for details refer to OR81-186 0
SHADING: For Phalaenopsis In California use 73% for both them and Paphiopedilums. A86-719In New York State in winter use not more than 25%. A81-688 0
SHADING: Lath Blinds These can be used to reduce the heating effect of sunlight and not its intensity by a compromise in lath blinds; raise parallel runners about nine inches above the glass and rest the rolled-up lath blinds (Western Cedar preferred) so that two rolls can be extended outward from the centre spot on the roof; for details and management see OR87My-84; A80-1140 0
SHADING: On a Fiberglass Greenhouse To vary the shade with the season; if the fiberglass corrugations run east-west, the high curves can be shade-painted leaving the trough area of strips clear to provide about 30% shade and as the sun shifts towards the south more available light will enter the unshaded part; neat, eh? A83-267 0
SHADING: Removing it A wire brush on a long pole, using water and soap, or Sal soda (Sodium carbonate -- washing soda, if you can find it) are aids to its removal. OD87-10 0
SHADING: Supplementary Type Ordinary plastic door or window screening provides about 2 0% screening, and two layers can be used effectively in an emergency. A85-1109 0
SHADING: Too Much 70% shade for cattleyas will produce thin and weak plants, the surest sign of not enough light, and 55 to 63% is usually recommended (in California?) A84-1061 0
SHADING: Whitewash A substitute for the old-fashioned whitewash can be found in a product used for marking lines on playing fields, such as baseball diamonds; one name for it is Sportsfield Whiting; mixed with water it can be applied like paint as thickly as need be; it takes a bit more cleaning off in the fall. RMH 0

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